What are the differences between F1’s and F2’s? Why is it so confusing to research on the internet? We are mostly concerned with the temperament of our puppy, which list is right for us? Please read on so find out!
Why is it so dang confusing to research Bernedoodles on the internet? Much of the information about doodles (of any kind) differs online because the AKC doesn’t recognize them as a breed yet. As a result, there is no “breed standards” like there are for every “pure bred” dog. For example, the AKC says a Labrador should be cream, black or brown and weight approximately 65lbs. That is the “breed standard”. Doodles don’t have this which is why researching doodles can be so dang confusing! Every breeder has their own breeding program, philosophy and unique parent dogs. Further, not only is there variation when it comes to doodle “standards”, much of the information found on the internet which talks about F1’s vs. F2’s came out before genetic testing was available for doggo’s.
I can’t speak for any other breeders or their programs in terms of health and temperaments because they may not do things the way I do them. Temperament and health -it all comes back to nature and nurture which means the parents and the breeder. If the parents are “clear” of the most common heritable diseases by breed via PawPrint genetics or GenSol (so for bernedoodles it’s both poodles and BMD’s) then the puppies are clear by parentage. In my breeding program, the parents must test “clear” meaning they can’t be “carriers” or “affected” by the most common heritable diseases for poodles and BMD’s. They also must have “good” or “excellent” ratings by the OFA or PennHip for hips and elbows otherwise they don’t become parents in my program.
What’s the difference between F1 Bernedoodles and F2 Bernedoodles?
The main differences between F1’s and F2’s are:
1. F1 puppies are born from either a berner Mom or a poodle mom with the father being the other breed.
2. F1 litters are more consistent in the colors and patterns with slight variations in markings. Ie; the white blaze between the eyes may be thicker on some and thinner on others but they all look similar.
3. F1 litters have a slightly higher chance of having a low shedding puppy or two in any given litter. However, I haven’t seen it yet so it’s more of a full disclosure statement
4. F1’s born from berner mom’s keep the berner pattern, are tricolored mostly and have wavy, non-shedding coats
5. F1’s born from poodle mom’s have a smaller frame like a poodle and curlier coats. They’re also usually bi colored black/white or brown/white with either a “tuxedo” pattern (white mittens, chest and tip of tail. Sometimes a white blaze) or “parti” which means half one color and half white (think Holstein cows).
1. Both parents are bernedoodles
2. There’s more variation in the coat colors because there were 2 poodle dad’s involved in the making of the bernedoodle parents. One for the mom and one for the dad. You’ll see phantoms, sables, traditional tricolored, parti tricolored and Sable tricolored, bicolored including apricot/white, black/white or brown/white and solid colored depending on what the bernedoodle parents look like. If both bernedoodle parents are tri colored however, then some of their pups will be too! If one parent is a Sable color like rocky then there will be some Sable puppies and some tricolored as well. More variation overall.
3. They are all non shedding because both parents are and have genetically tested for the shedding gene. Wavy coats Best for people with allergies
4. Each puppy is unique! More variation in coat colors and patterns. See my website under previous litters and “what does a bernedoodle look like” and look at grace, Suzy, Janis, Grace and Rosie’s past litters.
5. They generally have more of a berner frame vs. a petite poodle frame
In my program, there is no difference in health between F1’s and F2’s as long as parents have been genetically tested for the most common heritable diseases by breed and found to be “clear” (not carriers or affected). In any doodle or pure bred breed, the puppies are only as healthy as the parents.
Temperament will always comes back to the parents and what the breeder does to socialize the pups from birth to 8 weeks old. I choose the parents on temperament and health. In my breeding program, there’s no difference in temperament between F1’s vs. F2’s. They’re all wonderful! We also do neuro stimulation exercises beginning on day 3 until week 8 as well as the Volhard Puppy Temperament Test at 6 Weeks Old. Please see the puppy pricing page for more information about temperaments!
How can I help you pick? There are no “bad” picks here..
On puppy pick/gotcha day, I help guide matching puppies to families based on lifestyle but ultimately it’s your decision. If a family has 2- 4 active kids in elementary or middle school, the quietest puppy wouldn’t be able to keep up with them! The quietest puppy would be a better match for a family with very young children who don’t understand puppies teeth or families who are past the hustle of young kids and want a dog to just chill out with them.
Make sense? If not, please contact me and we can discuss further